Momofuku Ssäm Bar
Everything is very smooth at Momofuku Ssam Bar, but never too smooth. A campy poster of John McEnroe offers balance to the angular furniture and dark wooden walls. The service runs like a well-oiled machine, but David Chang’s creations are recounted in animated fashion. This Korean-American belongs to the ‘meatheads’: chefs who often and gladly experiment with all body sections of pig and cow. Chang serves daring taste explosions with a witticism, such as mini-burgers with belly of pork, veal terrine made from calve’s head with chilli peppers or the original ssam. ‘Ssam’ is Korean for everything that is wrapped: whether it is a sort of Asiatic burritos with excitingly seasoned pork or marinated steak in lettuce leaves. More than ‘fusion’, Ssam is more than anything typical of New York: everything is possible, as long as it tastes good. Powerful hard rock makes normal conversation impossible but fits right in with the overwhelming tastes. Most dishes are affordable, but there are a few exceptions, such as the slowly roasted leg of pork (165 dollars for 6-8 persons).Address
Momofuku Ssäm Bar
207 Second Avenue, New York,
NY 10003, (212) 254-3500
www.momofuku.com
Cross Street: 13th Street,
Directions: L at 1st Avenue; 4,5,6, R, N, W at Union Square
